About five
months ago I was invited to a tasting of Californian wine producers Rodney
Strong and Foppiano, organized by Domaine Wines in Stockholm and lead by Steve
Messinger, representative of both Rodney Strong and Foppiano. The main reason
for this delay – five months! – is that
shortly after the tasting our adoption process advanced into top gear and things
got rather dizzy. Anyway, a few days ago I managed to find my old notes so here
is a report of the tasting.
Steve Messinger
begins by discussing the special characteristics of terroir and climate of
northern California. This however after a quick reflection of life’s unpredictablilarities, such as leaving a
sun-drenched and spring-warm California and landing in the indisputable
sub-zero temperature land of Sweden. Remember, this tasting was in March. “What
makes Sonoma County so interesting”, Steve starts off with, “is that it is
bordered by the ocean and old extinct volcanoes. So there is this interesting
combination in Sonoma County of old seabed that has risen over the years and
volcanic activity from these extinct volcanoes.”
This
combination, old seabed and extinct volcanoes, provides for a terroir that is
hugely diverse. Some winemakers even argue that there are more different soil
types in Sonoma County than in all of France. This may sound puzzling to
visitors, especially from Europe. How can you possibly make Pinot Noir and
Cabernet in the same place? How’s that possible? Well you need to understand
the soil, you need to come and visit the vineyards and appreciate the
differences. It is not uncommon to have twenty different soil types within a
ten hectare vineyard.
Turning to
climate, California needs no special introduction. But, “California is a long
coast, and everybody has the image of girls in bikinis running down, Baywatch…
that’s southern California. Very
different than northern California.” The vineries of Rodney Strong and Foppiano
are both some ninety minutes north of San Francisco, so about 80 kilometers
north. The northern part of California is much cooler than the southern part,
but that does not mean that crops grow at a slower pace. The problem is
basically the opposite, grapes seem to thrive almost too good in California,
making the imperative to challenge your grape selection very small.
In Europe
the rules of the appellations are determined by state or a governing body. In
the US, if you plant the wrong grape, you’re out of business. So the logic is
that wine makers in the US tend to grow grapes that are most suited for the terroir. However, as pointed out above,
this is not always the case. But this remains a defining line between wine
making in Europe and the US.
Steve explains
that “what we have learned over the years is, when you plant grapes in
California, it tends to grow really well. May not be the exact right thing, so
then it becomes the challenge of saying, ‘ok I make pretty good Chardonnay
here, but if it were Cabernet it would be so much better.’ When does the
economic imperative say that it is time to make the change?”
Grapes have
been growing in Sonoma County since the early 1800s. The basic origin for the
Californian wine industry is Swiss and Italian immigrants, who came to
California during the gold rush. Those who did not make their fortune in gold turned
to what they knew which was growing grapes, and thus the Californian wine
industry was born. The prohibition period between 1915 and 1935 naturally brought
the wine business to an almost complete standstill, so did even WWII. But then
in the 1960’s the economy started to grow and people started to grow grapes
again. So from 1960 till now is really the renaissance and the new way of thinking
of wine in California.
We start
the tasting with a chardonnay form Rodney Strong Winery, the 2011 Rodney Strong Sonoma County Chardonnay. It is named after its
founder, Rodney Strong, who was a very famous dancer in the 1950’s. At the height
of his career he danced in Paris at the Lido. Reflecting on life after his dancing career,
he concluded that there are no old dancers, but – there are a lot of old
winemakers! So he started going down to the classic French wine regions such as
Burgundy, Bordeaux, and Loire in order to learn about wine, and when he finally
came back to California in 1956 he started looking around for a good spot. In
1959 he started his winery, and in 1962 he settled in Sonoma County. He thought
this was going to be the most interesting place to grow grapes because of the
variety of grapes you could grow there. He was the first person who planted pinot
noir in certain areas and chardonnay in other areas.
The concept
of Rodney Strong is to make Sonoma County wine only. By Sonoma standards, Rodney
Strong Winery is a fairly large winery, owning about 600 hectares within the
county. Over the
years, as Rodney Strong developed his winery, he realized that he needed to
find a partner to take the winery to the next level. He had no children. He met
Tom Kline who had done some consulting within the wine industry, and they
started talking. Tom Kline's family was growing grapes in central valley, and the
more they discussed it, the more they thought this could be good for everybody.
Finally
Tom said, “okay, I would be interested in buying the winery but under one condition
and one condition only. Rodney, you have to stay in the winery until your
death. You cannot go anywhere. This is your winery and I am only the caretaker.
I want you to teach a new winemaker, you have a job for life.” This was more
than Rodney had hoped for, so this was a relationship which started in 1989 and
continued until the day that Rodney Strong passed away.
This is the standard Chardonnay from Rodney
Strong. It is a blend of vineyards throughout the county, thus aiming at
showing the county as a whole rather than a specific vineyard. Its focus is on
drinkability, aiming at capturing the fresh fruitiness, the crisp apple, trying
to balance the oak so it does not become too owerpowering.
Naturally,
it is difficult to mention Californian chardonnay and oak in the same sentence
without people grabbing the nearest blunt object good for throwing at you, but that
is the past. “For the most part,” Steve is eager to point out, “gone are the
days of stereotype of the wine people have about California Chardonnay, big,
buttery, oaky… we have not made those wines in twenty years. But stereotypes
die hard.”
Given the
multi-faced, abundantly varied geology of Sonoma County, it is not easy to
determine the boundaries of specific terroirs in Sonoma County. There is an AVA
called Sonoma Coast, an AVA called Russian River Valley, and an AVA called
Alexander Valley. All these can prove distinct and different.
Steve continues
with stating that he usually uses a Burgundy analogy to demonstrate the
differences of the terroir in Sonoma County: “there is Mersault, there is Morey
St Denis, there is Mâcon. All places where Chardonnay grows really well and
they are all different. We are beginning to see those differentiations in
California as well. This wine wants to teach us the combination of all those
and put it in a blend. This wine is a combination of all these three.”
It is a
nice wine. I find hints of apple and candy, it is fresh and fruity, tiny hints
of butter. A little bit too much oak for my taste but that is just my personal
taste. Nothing you could not live with. About 60 per cent of the wine is barrel
fermented, 40 per cent stays in stainless steels. A nice combination for this
style of chardonnay.
We continue with the 2010 Rodney
Strong Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon. Apart from cabernet, this wine has got
a little bit of merlot in it and also a little bit of malbec. For this range of
cabernets, the object is to find something that is true to
Sonoma County but rather soft in tannins. This is a wine that is made to be
consumed early, it is not for laying down 20 years. Something to be enjoyed
in restaurants. I really enjoyed this wine.
Good structure, hints of cedar and wood. Some
red peppers appear on top.
Steve tells
us the story of when the cellar was redecorated a few years ago. Behind a wall they found 1935 cabernet, cabernet made the first year after prohibition ended. Probably because
of troubles getting glass and cork and everything, half was made with whisky
screw cap bottles and half with cork. Four out of five with the screw cap
bottles were perfect. Very much alive and fresh! Master wines could not believe the
wine was so fresh. For the wines bottled with cork, probably two out of five were good. “There is
a great history of Californian wines aging very well, but there is not that
many people who have had the opportunity to try it, since we tend to drink it
all…”
Finally, 2010 Rodney
Strong Knotty Vines Northern Sonoma Zinfandel. Made from vines planted in 1914,
so almost a hundred years this year. I find this wine more open than the
cabernet, more accessible. A bit of mothball again, maybe a wee bit too much. But,
apart from that, a very good wine. All that you are looking for in a
Californian cabernet – the fruity, the ripe berries, yet with structure. A bit
spicy, too. As Steve puts it, “in California, this is our pizza and pasta wine.
In the rest of the world, it is Chianti Classico. We have Zinfandel.”
Turning to the Foppianos, we start
with their pinot noir: 2010 Foppiano Russian River Estate Pinot Noir. The Foppiano winery is located in Russian River Valley,
which has gotten a reputation of being one of the finest places in California
of growing chardonnay and pinot noir.
The
Foppianos came from Genoa during the gold rush era, didn’t make their fortune
in gold, settled in Sonoma County, bought the property in 1896 and started
making wine. It is now the fifth generation, farming in the exact same spot.
The winery consists of about 60 hectares in Russian River Valley of Sonoma
County.
Their claim
to fame is this odd grape called Petite Sirah. This grape, the Petite Sirah,
was for the old Italians the blending grape. You could put it into anything as
a magic equalizer, if your Cabernet was a little weak, if you needed a little
colour in your pinot noir, well then you added some Petite Sirah to it. The Foppianos,
however, understood that you could make a really great wine out of Petite Sirah
on its own. What is this Petite Sirah, then? It is not Syrah, it is its own
unique grape. In France it is called Durif. It is a rich wine, but if it is made
incorrectly it can be very hard and very tanny.
The Foppiano
estate amounts to about seventy hectares and located in the warmer section of the
Russian River. The Pinot section is right on the river, which is coolest
section of the vineyard. Coolest, since the fog comes in during the summer time
and keeps everything very cool.
During the
growing season, temperature reaches 30 or even 35 degrees during the day. But
at five o’clock the wind starts to blow and fog comes in and the temperature can
drop to ten degrees. Steve laughs about the ill-fated tourists coming up in
shorts and t-shirts: at five, when the temperature drops to ten degrees, “we
sell a lot of sweaters at the tasting room at the winery during this time!”
But the
cooling fog makes great pinot noir. It has been argued that Russian River pinot
noir, due to the cooling fog, have a little more grip than some of the other
areas, they have a little more tannin structure in the back. But still,
beautiful fruit.
The Foppiano
Russian River Estate Pinot Noir is a fairly new wine for Foppiano, the first
vineyards with pinot noir were not planted until 1990. Prior to that they were
planted with cabernet, which probably was absolutely the wrong decision, but
the economic imperative made the firm plant pinot instead and that has shown to
be the right decision.
The wine is
made with traditional Burgundian methods, such as open top fermentors and no
pumping over. Predominantly, French oak is used, but wine maker Natalie West has
experimented with a little bit of Hungarian oak.
This is a superb
wine. It has soft tannins, a good structure and great balance. Lots of warmth.
A little mothball lingers on top, but nothing disturbing. It is welcoming,
generous. I find some hints of cranberry and cherry. At the end, coffee. A long
finish.
Then 2010
Foppiano Russian River Estate Petite Sirah. Finally the moment we’ve all been
waiting for, the Petite Sirah! Steve notes that when made on its own, it has a
tendency of producing really hard, harsh tannins. But that is if you treat it
like you treat cabernet. “What Natalie has decided is, she wants to treat this
like she treats pinot noir, gently. So, we use top fermentors, we push down gently.
And it seems to really soften the tannin structure. There are a lot of tannins
here, there is a lot of depth. But it is really embracing and easy to consume.”
It
certainly is easy to consume and embracing. It starts off with a dark, sweet
scent. Very ripe cherries. Instructions for making this wine: take you most
ripe berries, but don’t worry – you will not lose structure. It is by far not
the most complex wine on the market, but scores high on drinkability. A nice
wine, I am glad I got the chance to try it.
Then we get a bonus wine:
1990 Petit Sirah. No tasting without bonuses or dark horses! Behind a hidden
cupboard Steve pulls out a 1990 petite sirah, to conclude the tasting. Ah, this
is interesting. Old cellars, mint pastilles, my mind wanders off to Italy and a
mature Barolo. Very, very good! I’m buying a case and forgetting.
Afterwards,
lunch is served. We are offered prime rib of Swedish Wagy, and with that sauce
béarnaise, green beans and grilled tomatoes. Superb!
Many thanks
to Steve Messinger and to the rest of the crew at Domaine Wines for sharing the
story and philosophy of Rodney Strong and Foppiano winerys, along with letting
us taste the wines. Very interesting and best of luck!
PS, on a
more personal note, I would like to add that being at a Californian wine tasting
brought back memories of my own wine tasting experience in California. Some five
years ago, it must have been April 2008, I accidentally stumbled across the Sideways trail, when a friend and I did
a week in California. My friend was there for a coaching conference and I
joined to get some time off work. Needless to say, of course we did the whole shabang: driving the coastal highway
from SF to LA, driving across the Golden Gate Bridge, gazing at the amazing redwoods
at Muir, eating a thirty-five dollar breakfast at a local diner, stopping at
Big Sur, eating crappy food at Fisherman’s Warf, eating even more crappy food
at Venice Beach and eating the crappiest food of them all at Hollywood Boulevard.
All this in addition to trying to look as cool as possible at Long Beach, having
a hard time coping with the American version of “breakfast” and “coffee” and NOT trying to speak English with too much fake British
accent. Everything but the Alcatraz prison – I saw the place back in the early
eighties and frankly it isn’t much of sight. An island, some buildings, lots of
cells and lots of tragedy. The movies do a better job.
Anyway, while
my friend was busy coaching down in LA I suddenly became aware that much of the
story in the film Sideways takes
place just north of Los Angeles, centering around the town of Los Olivos in the
Santa Ynez Valley. I just had to go there. The town of Los Olivos is a very
quiet place, mostly one story buildings. People tended to walk slowly and
tended to smile a lot. I parked the rental car and grabbed some lunch at a
salads bar, sitting down at a table outside. Halfway into my chicken sandwich I
saw that just across the street – just across the street! – was the restaurant
where Miles had cried out his “if anyone orders merlot, I’m leaving. I am not
drinking any f***ing merlot!”
I wolfed
down the last of the sandwich and hurried across the street to the restaurant.
It was open, so I entered. The walls were covered with bottles and the air was
cool, friendly, relaxed, yet strict. A classy restaurant. I went to the bar
where I was greeted by a young waiter with a big smile. She asked if I was
looking for something special, which I of course was. All those bottles, which
to try? I settled on buying a pinot, but just as I was about to ask for their
best or at least a very good pinot noir, I remembered that Californian pinots
tend to be too much fruity. So with the best fake British accent I could do,
and in a loud voice of course, I declared: “I’m European. Do you have any
pinots with like no fruit?”
The girl,
understanding my joke, smiled ear to ear and said, “I’m sure we can find some.”
This article is also published in BKWineMagazine